What Is Lead Climbing?

Lead climbing is a more advanced technique than what you first learn when you step into a climbing gym using ropes. Unlike top-rope climbing, where the rope is secured from above, a lead-climber climbs a route while periodically attaching the rope to protection points “quickdraws” placed on the wall. Falls are caught by the last clipped quickdraw.

Although it definitely sounds scary, it is a valuable skill that tests your mental fortitude and will transform your climbing. We aim to teach it in a progressive way so that it is open to anyone of nearly any skill level.

Aim Of This Course:

The aim of this course is to break down the lead-climbing and belaying process into small chunks and practice each separately, spending the second session putting it all together and practising/tweaking your technique to ensure the entire process is smooth and confident.

Which Belay Device?

Unlike most other climbing courses that teach with the device specific to that gym only, we aim to teach in a way that means you can adapt your technique to ANY belay device, for any climbing gym, anywhere in the world. For that reason we start out teaching with a plain tube-style device (i.e. ATC) with additional safety measures in place. Once that skill is mastered we bring out our big pile of assisted-braking devices (we have lots, including of course the ubiquitous Grigri!) and learn how adapting your technique to each one is useful and possible with the techniques you have already mastered.

No Minimum Climbing Ability:

Unlike most other climbing courses, I do not impose a minimum climbing grade for my learn to lead courses, because I consider this as primarily a safety skill rather than a strength based skill. For me, your ability to safely manage the rope, both as a climber and as a belayer, is independent from your ability to climb difficult grades.

What We Cover:

We run through the following skills, continually refining them until they are committed to (muscle) memory:

Belayer Skills:
- Threading the belay device
- Partner checks
- Communication
- Hand position on the ropes
- ‘Spotting’ the climber
- Quickly taking, and giving rope
- Short-roping
- Watching for climber mistakes, providing feedback
- Catching leader falls (small to large)
- Feet position on the ground, on the wall
- Different types and styles of belay devices and how to use each.
Climber skills:
- Knot tying
- Communication
- Partner Checks
- Clipping the rope (and common mistakes)
- …More clipping (it is harder than it looks)
- Taking a leader-fall (we start small, don’t worry!)

Prerequisites

Top-rope belaying experience preferred, but not necessary.

Gear Requirements:

You need your own harness and rock shoes for this course, everything else is provided. If you do not have a harness, please let me know as I have three spares.

Times:

This course is usually run over two evenings, 6.30pm to 9.30pm each evening, for a total 6 hours teaching time.

Indoor Learn-to-Lead